Thursday, November 20, 2008

Skiing down a volcano


No you do not have
to travel to a far flung outpost of the world to experience ski-ing down a volcano!
Just hop over to France and visit the Auvergne where hurtling down volcanic snow covered slopes is a very popular pastime.


The Auvergne is home to the ‘Monts Dome’, a range of mountains located to the south west of Clermont Ferrand, made up of over 80 volcanoes which became extinct less than 4000 years ago. This stunning terrain has several high peaks (known as Puys) with the imposing Puy de Dome overlooking Clermont Ferrand reaching 1465m and the Puy de Sancy an impressive 1886m, the highest peak in France outside of the Alps and Pyrenees.
The two main classified ski-centres of Superbesse and Le Mont Dore are located on the south and north side of the Puy du Sancy respectively and are linked to form an overall ski terrain of 85km. The ski pass (7 days €135 per adult, €94.60 per child in high season – 2008/9) covers both resorts. In December 2008 a new cable car will open in Superbesse improving access to the summit; the Puy de la Perdix (1850m). The smaller resort of Chastreix-Sancy is located on the west side of the Puy de Sancy which has 16km of slopes. This is not linked to the two main resorts.
Several smaller resorts combine with the above to form the Grandes Espaces d’Auvergne, where you will find over 200km of downhill pistes and 900km of cross country pistes. The region is best suited to beginners and intermediate level skiers and is an excellent place to learn to ski. The 2008/9 ski season runs from 1st December to 26th April.
The Auvergne ski resorts are very much geared towards the family. The main resorts all have ski schools catering for all levels of ability. Superbesse and Le Mont Dore both have nursery ski clubs (Piou Piou) where children from 4 years old can learn to ski in a separate domain away from the main slopes. For younger children there is a nursery at Superbesse catering for children from 3 months old.
Access to Superbesse and Le Mont Dore is via car (arrive early to ensure a space) or for those wishing to arrive minus the stress of hunting for a car parking space via the free snow shuttle buses which run frequently from Besse and Le Mont Dore to the foot of the slopes.
Apart from downhill or cross country skiing there is a wealth of other winter activities available in the area. You can try tubbing (hurtling down the mountain on a tyre inner tube!), sledging, ice-skating, snow-kiting, ice climbing, winter quad biking, dog sledding or speed ski-ing to name but a few. All of these (outdoor) activities have their own dedicated safe areas.
A great way to explore the snow covered landscape is by taking one of the many snow shoe trails. You can take off on your own (equipment is available for hire) to discover the area at your own pace via the marked trails or take advantage of the services of a mountain guide. Half day or full day excursions are offered as well as night trips with a meal and overnight stay in a farm or mountain ‘buron’.
Accommodation in the area is plentiful and varied with a good choice of hotels, bed and breakfast and self catering houses, chalets or apartments. Away from the resorts accommodation is cheaper and several agencies in the area have a good choice of holiday rentals within 10-20 minutes drive of the slopes.
There is a good choice of restaurants in and around the ski centres to suit all tastes and budgets. Traditional Auvergne dishes include truffade, a carbohydrate laden feast of potatoes, cheese and cured meats which is an ideal meal after a hard day on the mountains, and aligot, garlic mashed potato usually served with French sausages. Of course lighter meals are available but the emphasis is on traditional country fare, typical of this predominantly agricultural region.
Throughout the winter season a number of special events are held. From 29th December to 2nd January Superbesse is hosting ‘Nordic Week’ showcasing typical Scandinavian winter activities such as dog sledding, biathlon and Nordic cross country ski-ing. The ‘Sancy Snow Dog’ a dog sledding race takes place over the week-end of the 3rd and 4th of January in Le Mont Dore. On 31st January Superbesse hosts one of the famous ‘Trophee Andros’ series of races in which cars compete over a circuit made entirely of solid ice. Not for the faint hearted! And between 12th and 21st February is the ‘Sancy Snow Jazz Festival’ featuring New Orleans and traditional live jazz playing in bars, restaurants and discoteques. These and many other events help to make a winter visit to the Auvergne a unique experience.
Access to the area from the UK is via the channel ports (approximately 7 hours drive from Calais) or by air via Paris to Clermont Ferrand. The nearest airport with direct flights to the UK is Limoges, approximately 2 drive hours to the west of Clermont Ferrand.

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